“Ried Kirchberg”

We need go all the way back to the year 1203 to discover when Cistercian monks first documented the Kirchberg hill above the town of Winden am See. Having come from Burgundy and established themselves at the Heiligenkreuz Abbey near Vienna, the monks were granted this land above Lake Neusiedl by the Hungarian King Emeric. Right away, they sensed what great potential the site had. Naturally then, they decided to plant grapes.

Sloping to the southeast, the gentle Kirchberg reveals one spot in particular that enjoys exceptional climatic conditions. At a slight dip in the terrain, fresh air from the Leitha range of hills flows down toward the lake. With rapid warming here from the morning sun and an equally swift sharp drop in temperatures come evening, we find ideal conditions that ultimately lead to fresh, lively wines. This is exactly where Josef Umathum now grows his Ried Kirchberg grapes.

It was in exploring the Leitha heights that Umathum came across this fine parcel and the vintner decided to take advantage of the singular geological and microclimatic conditions he found. The breezy, cool plot with a shell-limestone soil was to prove optimal for producing a unique wine specifically out of the Blaufränkisch grape variety that is full of character, even in the long run.

As evidenced by numerous archaeological finds, we know too that the Celts had left their mark on this historic site. As a plus, the Kirchberg offers a fantastic panoramic view over Lake Neusiedl and the Leitha Hills.

Solid Preparation
Having thoroughly analyzed the geological characteristics of the Kirchberg in consultation with the distinguished French soil microbiologists Lydia and Claude Bourguignon – who, from a base in Dijon, consult in viticulture worldwide – Umatum had the soil aerated in-depth, but not turned. He then laid down vital compost to activate soil bacteria. Next came the sowing of a mixture of rye, alfalfa, and various types of clover to encourage root growth and to further stimulate soil life.

It wasn’t for another two years – in 2008, that is – before the vines were planted directly into the verdant ground cover. The very first vintages were then allowed to develop into classic wines.

The Umathum Winery harvests exclusively by hand. A later harvest at temperatures below 5° C (41° F) is particularly important for Blaufränkisch. The brisk atmosphere causes the firm, tight skin of the berries to shrink slightly, which in turn softens the tannins characteristic of this variety.

Once de-stemmed in the cellar, the grapes undergo a second selection process by means of an optical sorting machine that removes the finest of impurities.

Fermentation with skin contact traditionally takes place over three weeks. The color and acidity are extracted by gently pressing the pomace over and over. The wine is then aged in small older oak barrels for at least 18 months. Bottled wines are stored for a further eight years in the cellar at 12° C (54° F). The first release took place in September 2025, a full ten years after the harvest.

Creating a great wine means grasping the big picture
For the foreseeable future, our most explicit challenge with climate change is that it will require constant adaptation to new circumstances. For viticulture, this means that historically cooler locations will most likely support better growing conditions for vines.